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The labyrinthine Souq Waqif preserves Qatar's history, culture | Features

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Doha, Qatar – Nestled in the heart of the capital’s old downtown, with Doha’s dramatic skyline as a backdrop, Souq Waqif is a vibrant maze of markets that takes visitors back in time to traditional Arab markets .

Hamaris (porters) roam the narrow, winding alleyways in wheelbarrows, some carrying shoppers’ purchases and others looking for customers.

Elderly people enjoying a game of dama (backgammon) at Majlis Al Dhamma. For the younger generation, there’s a toy store, a bird market, and the sight of pigeons picking grain casually spreads across the grounds outside.

Exotic scents of saffron, cloves and cardamom are in the air, and shimmering gold and precious metals are crafted into exquisite jewellery.

Hamari waiting for customers in the alleys of the souq [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

Founded more than a century ago, Souq Waqif was once a weekend trading center on the banks of the Musheirib Wadi (river) to facilitate trade between nomadic Bedouins and locals.

Waqif means “standing” in Arabic, and means that the wadi that flows into the market is flooded on both sides, so merchants and residents conduct transactions while standing.

“Not a single shop was built in the Wilderness era until developers started turning the waterfront into land. rice field.

The weekly market soon became an important place not only for trade but also for information and news, contributing to the transfer of knowledge as well as tangible goods.

“It was an important place not only for trade, but also for social life. It was a place where the community became aware of the latest developments, both local and international,” she added.

Growing up in the Al Jesra neighborhood adjacent to Souq Waqif, Al Qasabi saw his father, uncle and extended family’s business rooted in this traditional market and rightly recognized the emotional connection to this place. Did.

“I consider Souq Waqif to be an important part of my life and that of my ancestors because I grew up in an alley surrounded by its beauty and charm.”

Shams Al Qassabi
Shams Al-Qasabi, the first Qatari woman to open a business in Souq Waqif in 2004 [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

She has witnessed not only physical changes in Souk, but also social ones.

Aiming to follow in her father’s footsteps and help her retired husband, she took a bold initiative to break down the gender stereotypes that held back female entrepreneurs in male-dominated souks, opening up a spice shop and known as Sheyal. opened both restaurants. Shumos.

“At the time, women visiting the souq were not valued by society, so fabric traders carried baskets called boksha from house to house and shouted to encourage women to buy their goods.”

The discovery of oil and the expansion of the oil industry in the 1950s changed Qatar’s economy dramatically, and Souq Waqif prospered accordingly.

However, the economic boom of the 1960s through the 1990s also saw a significant expansion of the shopping mall environment. As a result, Souq Waqif’s popularity and foot traffic have declined.

Souq Waqif
Souq Waqif with Doha skyline in the background [Showkat Shafi/Al Jazeera]

In 2003, a fire destroyed most of the souk.

Recognizing that Doha’s streets are beginning to change and traditions are being devastated, the Qatari Emir commissioned renowned Qatari artist Mohammed Ali Abdullah to design a new souk based on the look of the old one. Did.

After discussions with builders and artists, a storyboard was created. Abdullah oversaw the production of a series of paintings depicting the daily lives of the Qatari people.

Work began in 2004, coupled with the knowledge of skilled artisans to create a new vision for the souk.

Modern buildings have been replaced with traditionally built dangeal wood and bamboo roofs, with tie layers of clay and straw, reintroducing strategies for insulating buildings from extreme heat.

Once completed, it recreated a cultural and historical phenomenon.

Stepping into the winding maze of corridors of Souq Waqif is like stepping back in time.

“We welcome locals as well as tourists every day. Some come to enjoy the traditional flavors of the Spice Souk, while others choose from colorful bags of spices and herbs to take home with them for family and friends. There are people,” Muhammad Sadiq Ali Akbar, who has been working with spices and herbs for more than 30 years, told Al Jazeera.

Souq Waqif
Shops in Souq Waqif [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

Other options include carved wooden objects, trinkets and pillboxes made of wood and silver, a wide selection of coffee and dates, and even large and expensive traditional items such as carpets and rugs. included.

As the 2022 Qatar World Cup approaches, many shops in the souks, especially souvenir shops, are preparing for the influx of tourists and resulting healthy cash flow.

KP Musammil, who works at Khor Aladid Ancient Art, is one of them and wants to increase his football-related sales.

“There are a lot of tourists here every day. But I hope that it will be held at least three times, if not more, during the World Cup.”

Nasirul Rain, who works at Esfahan Gallery, hasn’t been to his native Nepal for a long time, but has postponed the trip until after the World Cup.

“We want to leave a lasting memory of Qatar for World Cup fans and we want to impress them with something unique that they cannot find in their own country,” he said. told Al Jazeera.

“We have hand-knotted Persian rugs, but sadhu-woven ones are particularly seen as perfect examples of traditional Gulf cultural products. I am eager to purchase them as a memento of my life,” Rain added.

In addition, Souq has a huge number of restaurants and eateries for all tastes: Iraq, Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, India, Azerbaijan, Yemen, Qatar.

Two olfactory delights that are hard to resist are the delicious smell of bread baking in a taboon (clay oven) or the sizzling scent of a smoky kebab over a charcoal fire.

Souq Waqif Doha, Qatar [Showkat Shafi/Al Jazeera]
Exterior of Souq Waqif [Showkat Shafi/Al Jazeera]

Freshly-fried hot falafel brings out the flavors of authentic Arabian cuisine.

For more glamorous and exciting entertainment, the Falcon Souk offers a first-hand glimpse into the past through the tradition of this ever-popular sport.

A dozen falconers run specialty shops here, offering a wide range of popular falconry products and hosting falconry tours to gain a deeper knowledge of falconry as a sport and cultural tradition. I’m here.

“Prices for peregrine falcons start at 2,500 Qatari riyals ($685) and can go up to hundreds of thousands of riyals depending on the species and breed. Most of our customers are Qatari, Saudi and Kuwaiti,”30 said. Mohammad Islam, president of Al Ghizraniya Falcons and Requests, which has been trading for over a year, told Al Jazeera.

Next door is the Souq Waqif Falcon Hospital, which boasts a clinical facility large enough to treat up to 130 birds during peak season.

As a cultural and historical link between the past and the present, the presence of an arts center highlighting traditional Islamic art and contemporary Arabic art completes the area’s offerings to cater to all types of visitors. .

Souq Waqif
Abdullah bin Zayed Al Mahmoud Islamic Cultural Center next to Souq Waqif [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]
Souq Waqif
Some dining options for visitors at Souq Waqif [Sorin Furcoi/Al Jazeera]

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