Living in Barcelona is the perfect blend of Madrid-style love of life and Parisian elegance and taste. His second-largest city in Spain is one of Europe’s most popular tourist destinations, with more than 7 million tourists annually.
Despite its notorious crowds, there is plenty to enjoy. Everywhere you go, you’ll find the city’s architecture to be colorful, playful, and unique. Rows of symmetrical iron balconies are punctuated by fantastical details such as bay windows, turrets, painted tiles, hanging lanterns, flower boxes and carved reliefs.
At the time, this proud city was a Roman hermitage colony, a maritime powerhouse, a dynamo of the industrial age and a symbol of modernism. Today, we combine all these elements to create our own culture.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia, a proud “stateless country” and a region of Spain. Locals take pride in their different languages and speak of independence. And with each visit, more Catalan and less Spanish. I spoke with my friends in Barcelona about the practicalities of having their children learn Catalan. An aggressive, global speaking population left her less than 10 million native languages to her children, but no one questioned the notion. Of course they speak Catalan…they are Catalans. They also speak Spanish and English. They are well educated Europeans.
The iconic main square, Plaza Catalunya, is located in the center of Barcelona and separates the old and new parts of the city. Below the square is the old town, with a boulevard called La Rambla leading down to the port. This Catalan Champs Elysées has long been the quintessential Barcelona experience. But with the rise of modern affluence and tourism (plus Airbnb-type short-term rentals that allow landlords to make more money and drive local tenants to the suburbs), the allure of Las Ramblas Old men reading newspapers, bird and flower markets, and local shops have now been replaced by cheesy low-end tourist shops.
Barcelona’s most historic district is the Gothic Quarter, with its 14th-century cathedral at its navel. Today, the area is a complex yet charming grab bag of plazas, schoolyards, Art Nouveau storefronts, musty junk shops, chic antique shops and street musicians strumming Catalan folk songs. The recent lifting of rent restrictions has forced many of the old-fashioned shops to go out of business, but thankfully the district’s character has survived.
To see the city’s edgier side, venture beyond the Gothic Quarter into the neighborhood known as El Born (aka ‘La Ribera’). This bohemian-chic neighborhood has funky shops, exclusive cafes, wine bars serving expertly crafted tapas, colorful market halls, unique boutiques, and Picasso, one of Barcelona’s top museums. There is a museum.
Above the old town, beyond the bustling Plaça Catalunya, lies the elegant Eixample district. Much of Barcelona’s modernist architecture can be found here, especially the row of colorful façades built at the end of the 19th century: Casa Batllo, Casa Amatller and Casa Lleo Morera mansions complement each other with creative twists. Locals call them ‘Blocks of Discord’ because they look like they’re trying to outwit you.
The Eixample is also home to famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi’s La Pedrera (also known as La Pedrera). This is the quintessential modernist architecture of Barcelona and Gaudi’s last major work before dedicating his later years to the Sagrada his Familia.
The Sagrada Familia (Church of the Holy Family) is Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece. From the melting Glory façade to the skull-like Passionhis façade to the rainforest-like interior, the bold, organic architecture and décor inside and out. Gaudi worked on the construction of the Sagrada Familia during his 43 years from 1883 until his death in 1926. In 2010, the main hall was completed enough to host the Pope’s Consecration Mass. When I stepped inside on my last visit, the brilliance of Gaudi’s vision brought sublime adoration to the near-finished nave.
Today’s main challenges for this magnificent work in progress: Build the tallest church spire ever built, ensure that the construction can withstand the vibrations of high-speed trains rumbling underfoot, Find out how to buy out the owner to realize Gaudi’s grand vision. Promenade approaching the church. Gaudi’s goal of completion by 2026, the 100th anniversary of his death, may seem too optimistic. However, with millions of visitors pouring in, it seems to have become more accessible over time. “If there is one building he would like to see in Europe, it is Gaudi’s Sagrada in Barcelona, his familia church…completed.”
With its art, culture, and political stance, Barcelona is a place that, despite the large number of tourists, is likely to wave local flags and proclaim ‘Visca Catalunya!’ along with its residents.
Edmonds resident Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows for public television and radio, and organizes European tours. In this column, we revisit some of Rick’s favorite places from the last 20 years. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
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